How to choose a block paving installer (without getting burned)
Most failed driveways aren’t a problem with the blocks — they’re a problem with the sub-base, the edge restraint, or the laying course underneath. Cheap installers cut corners on the bits you can’t see, then disappear when the driveway settles two years later. Here’s what to ask before you sign anything.
Six red flags before you sign
- No mention of MOT Type 1 sub-base. A 150mm compacted Type 1 sub-base is non-negotiable. If a quote doesn’t name a specific aggregate at a specific depth, walk away.
- “We’ll re-use the existing base.” Sometimes possible — usually not. Old concrete and asphalt sub-bases have settled differently. Re-using saves money on day one and costs you the whole drive in year three.
- No geotextile membrane in the spec. Without a heavy-duty Terram (or equivalent) layer between the subgrade and the Type 1, fine soil migrates up into the sub-base over winters and turns it to mush.
- Hidden edging only. Steel or plastic hidden edging is fine for paths. Driveways need a concrete-haunched perimeter — kerb stones, blocks on edge, or a concrete edge beam. Without it, blocks creep outward and joints open.
- Pattern not specified. A herringbone pattern (45° or 90°) interlocks under vehicle load. Stretcher bond and basket weave look great but should be reserved for foot-traffic areas. If the quote doesn’t name the pattern, ask.
- No vibrating-plate compaction step listed. The blocks must be vibrated in twice — once dry, then once with kiln-dried sand brushed into the joints — to fully seat them and tighten the joints. “Brush sand in and we’re done” is not enough.
Questions every quote should answer
- What depth of excavation? (Should be 250–350mm for a vehicle driveway, deeper if existing surface needs removal.)
- What sub-base material and depth? (150mm MOT Type 1 in 75mm compacted lifts is the standard.)
- What edge restraint? (Concrete-haunched kerb or block-on-edge.)
- What block range and pattern? (Brand, range name, and pattern by name — e.g. “Marshalls Drivesett Tegula in 45° herringbone.”)
- What drainage solution? (Linear drain, soakaway, or run-off to permeable garden border — depending on permeability and SuDS rules.)
- How are manhole covers handled? (Recessed for a flush block-paved finish, or left raised with a stainless-steel trim — recessing costs more but looks far better.)
- What does the guarantee cover, exactly, and for how long?
Block paving brand showdown — Marshalls vs Brett vs Bradstone
Three brands dominate the UK block paving market. They’re all good. Here’s the honest comparison from a 25-year installer perspective.
Marshalls wins on colour stability and aged-finish range. The Drivesett Tegula range has been around for decades and the Marshalls Register accreditation matters to homeowners. Slightly pricier than Brett. Best for traditional and period homes in north Oxfordshire and the Cotswolds.
Brett wins on value and supply chain reliability — their UK manufacturing means we rarely have lead-time issues. Omega and Alpha ranges suit contemporary new-builds. About 10–15% cheaper than equivalent Marshalls. Best for Reading, Bicester, and Wantage new-build estates.
Bradstone sits between them on price and offers some unique decorative ranges (Monksbridge for a worn-stone look). Quality is consistently good but the range is narrower than Marshalls.
We’re accredited installers for all three and will bring samples from all of them to your free site visit.
